Wine & Food

Cafe society for Hampstead intellectuals

The Coffee Cup isn’t a restaurant. It’s a place where you can have food.

5 Sep 2016

The enigma of the egg

They are a great mystery and a great leveller; a simple thing that can be eaten a hundred ways.

31 Aug 2016

The eccentric vegetarian’s guide to crusading against carnivores

They’re going to lose, one day soon.

26 Aug 2016

Wake up to the English version of the croissant

Not all buns are created equal. So let me introduce you to the mother bun, the bun to end all buns: the morning scroll bun.

How gentrification killed the jellied eel

Jellied eels were London’s original fast food. That was, until the hipsters arrived in the East End.

25 Aug 2016

The Sunday roast is dying – and the Tories are to blame

Mrs Thatcher introduced the first bill to allow for Sunday trading in 1986; then the change ultimately happened under John Major.

22 Aug 2016

A strawberry cheesecake for the Great British Summer

It’s easy to forget quite how joyful strawberries are when you’ve been eating them for 28 years.

A post-Brexit meal with London’s Italians

Anchovies, ravioli and Italian gin

19 Aug 2016

When did it become a crime to be rude to waiters?

It has become a modern faux pas

15 Aug 2016

In defence of dinner parties

My wife prefers restaurants. She’s wrong

15 Aug 2016

There like a shot: where to eat grouse on the Glorious Twelfth

A guide for anyone stuck in the capital rather than a grouse moor.

12 Aug 2016

How breakfast became the brattiest meal of the day

The range of choice is turning us all into monsters.

12 Aug 2016

The joy of ugly food

It’s time to embrace ugliness in cooking.

Can I convince my father to like chicken?

He is eighty one, walks with a cane, and is a traditional sort of British gent. And he has never liked chicken.

10 Aug 2016

Cake expectations: A guide to afternoon tea

It’s one of the great English contributions to civilisation, this mid-afternoon break for tea and cake.

9 Aug 2016

Can an ancient Hellenic concept solve Greece’s food crisis?

Greece is looking backwards to help it move forwards.

4 Aug 2016

Bake a Breton cake, wrap up warm and head to the sea

When I feel homesick for the sea, I bake this cake.

Why breakfast still trumps brunch

Brunch is neither one thing nor another thing. Better to stick with breakfast and lunch.

27 Jul 2016

In defence of cheap mayonnaise

There’s a reason some of the most beloved items in our kitchen cupboards have survived so long.

26 Jul 2016

How to be confident with custard

I’m pretty sure I’ve finally cracked custard.

Summer calls for Pimm’s, not Aperol Spritz

At university we used to fill up paddling pools with the stuff. But where has Pimm’s gone this summer?

21 Jul 2016

On the pleasures of nostalgia glamour

It was never about the food.

19 Jul 2016

‘Perfect Instagram fodder’ – Rawligion reviewed

It’s not easy being green, as Van Morrison sang. It’s not cheap either. One of the chief criticisms of pretty-girl…

12 Jul 2016