Wine & Food

    Wines of the week: try an Argentinian white that was made by mistake

    18 October 2019

    2018 Piedra Negra Pinot Gris, Alta Colección, 13%vol, (£11.80; Tanners)

    Produced by Francois Lurton, of the great Bordeaux dynasty, in Mendoza, Argentina, this is something of an oddity. Francois ordered Chardonnay cuttings from France, was sent Pinot Gris by mistake, planted it anyway and was taken aback by how well it grew at altitude. The result is fresh, soft, creamy, peachy, slightly peppery, dry on the finish and completely delicious.

    2018 Purato Siccari Appassimento, 14%vol, (£8.99 if you mix 6; Majestic)

    From the vineyards of Vittoria in south east Sicily, a corking organic red wine made by the appassimento process, in which a proportion of Nero d’Avalo, Syrah and other local grapes are dried on the vine and on racks after picking. With high acidity, low tannin and beguiling notes of morello cherries, mocha, chocolate and spice, it’s perfect autumnal fare.

    2016 Hungarian Tokaji Late Harvest, 10%vol, (£5.99 per 50cl; Lidl)

    Ok, so this isn’t full-on Tokaji as we know it, but nor is it a full-on Tokaji price. Made from late harvested grapes rather than dried ones, it’s sweet – certainly – but not as richly, marmaladey sweet as regular Tokaji. It’s utterly charming though and boasts the same refreshing high acidity, making it a tastily sugary trifle to toy with at the end of a meal, with pudding, cheese or, best of all, on its own.