Wine & Food

    Wines of the week: try a Chardonnay from the Western Cape

    4 October 2019

    2018 Ch. d’Emeringes, Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes, 13.5%vol, (£8.50; Wine Society)

    Beaujolais has made something of a comeback of late and what was recently considered naff (thanks to all that bloody Bojolly Noovoo) is now considered rather chic. And this old vine Beaujolais-Villages is a corker, as good as many a cru Beaujolais and half the price. Richly coloured with intense, concentrated, juicy dark fruit, it shows Gamay in all its glory.

    2018 Warwick ‘The First Lady’ Chardonnay, 13%vol, (£8.75; Morrisons)

    A little beauty from the Western Cape, named in honour of Warwick Estates’s founder, Norma Ratcliffe, one of South Africa’s first women winemakers. I love Warwick’s wines, and this is deliciously sophisticated considering its cheery, entry level price. Instantly appealing, with a keen minerality and restrained ripe apple and citrus fruit, it’s backed by a long savoury finish.

    2016 Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett, 8%vol, (£14.68; Justerini & Brooks)

    A gloriously pure and elegant Riesling from the Mosel that’s almost impossible not to knock back in one go. It’s crisp, it’s clean, it’s pure and it’s packed with green apple and zingy citrus fruit, layered with silky smooth honey. It’s off-dry on the finish and ridiculously refreshing and – given it’s only 8%vol – try as I might, currently I can’t think of a finer 11am kick-starter.